He said that the new Eleven Madison Park will “have an influence on the best restaurants in places like Midland, Texas — affluent places that are not Los Angeles or San Francisco or New York.”
Ruth Reichl, the former editor of Gourmet magazine and restaurant critic for The New York Times from 1993 to 1999, said Mr. Humm’s example could influence the direction of American restaurant cuisine in the years ahead.
“A restaurant like Eleven Madison Park is basically a teaching institution,” Ms. Reichl said, likening its potential impact to that of Chez Panisse, the pioneering restaurant in Berkeley, Calif.
Mr. Humm said the decision is the result of a yearslong re-evaluation about where his career was headed, which reached its breaking point during the pandemic.
“It became very clear to me that our idea of what luxury is had to change,” Mr. Humm said. “We couldn’t go back to doing what we did before.”
Are they serving cicadas?